- Step 1: Rear bumper
- Step 2: License plate
- Step 3: Brake Light LED
- Step 4: License plate LED
- Step 5: Motor fan (Optional)
- Step 6: Motor assembly
- Step 7: Lower Control Arm
- Step 8: Rear bumper assembly
- Step 9: Insert the gears
- Step 10: Rear Giga Print Cover
- Step 11: Cable management
- Step 12: Upper control arm
- Step 13: Wheel Hub insert
- Step 14: Wheel Hub Nuts
- Step 15: Rear Hub Carrier / 1
- Step 16: Rear Hub Carrier / 2
- Step 17: Rear Hub Carrier / 3
- Step 18: Rear Hub Carrier / 4
- Step 19: Rear Hub Carrier / 5
- Step 20: Rear Hub Carrier / 6
- Step 21-A: Shock absorber: Spring replacement
- Step 21-B: Shock absorber: Set extra pre-load
- Step 22: Shock absorber assembly
- Step 23: Right Rear Suspension
- Step 24: Wheel Installation

In this Chapter we will assembly the parts, which were printed in the “10. 3D Print the Skateboard parts: Rear”!
Pressing information!
In this chapter you will need to pres some parts onto an another parts. You can found here some general information about these process:

- Usually, with correct 3D Printer calibration/settings the pressing can make with your hand.
- If the pressing can’t make with hand, use a Vise, or Hand Vise with our Pressing tools to press the parts together.
- You will found information in the assembly manual, that in which step, which Tool have to use and how.


4. If there is a gap between the pressed parts, you can increase the Flow [%] on your printer.
5. If it is too hard to press the parts together, you can decrease the Flow [%] on your printer.
Step 1: Rear bumper
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_BUMPER (1x)
โฌข SK_REAR_POSITION_LIGHT (2x)
โฌข M3x6 Screw (4x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Put the left and right “SK_REAR_POSITION_LIGHT” in the ” SK_REAR_BUMPER” (โฌข)
โฌข Tighten four M3x6 Screw to secure the “SK_REAR_POSITION_LIGHT” – Optional, usually not need, because the SK_REAR_POSITION_LIGHT parts has a tight fit.
The screws are go in printed plastic, so donโt use excessive strength during tightening, or the thread in the printed part will damage.



Step 2: License plate
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_BUMPER (1x)
โฌข SK_LICENSE_PLATE (1x)
โฌข M2x8 Cylinder head Screw (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Snap the SK_LICENSE_PLATE onto the SK_REAR_BUMPER
โฌข Tighten with one M2x8 Cylinder head screw the SK_LICENSE_PLATE
The screws are go in printed plastic, so donโt use excessive strength during tightening, or the thread in the printed part will damage.


Step 3: Brake Light LED
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_BUMPER (1x)
โฌข Red LED Light (Default: 3 mm diameter) (2x)
โฌข Guide for LED wire
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Put one-one Red LED Light into the SK_REAR_BUMPER brake light holes. The LED diameter has to fit to the SK_REAR_BUMPER hole diameter, which is in default 3 mm diameter.
โฌข Guide the LED Light wire on the marked channels
Make sure that you place in the correct LED. With default supplier parts the red LED lights are 3 mm and the white LED lights are 5 mm diameter.


Step 4: License plate LED
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_BUMPER (1x)
โฌข White License plate LED Light (Default: 5 mm diameter) (2x)
โฌข Guide for LED wire
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Put one-one White LED Light into the SK_REAR_BUMPER License plate light holes. The LED diameter has to fit to the SK_REAR_BUMPER hole diameter, which is in default 5 mm diameter.
โฌข Guide the LED Light wire on the marked channels
Arrange the cables like it is shown on the image!
Make sure that you place in the correct LED. With default supplier parts the red LED lights are 3 mm and the white LED lights are 5 mm diameter.



Step 5: Motor fan (Optional)
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข Motor fan (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (2x)
โฌข M3x14 Cylinder head Screw (2x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Put two M3 Square Nut in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) slot
โฌข Put the Motor fan in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) slot
โฌข Tighten the Motor fan with two M3x14 Cylinder head Screw
You can use the Cybertruck RC even without fan, but you could see heating issues after heavy, long runs around the motor.


Step 6: Motor assembly
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข Motor assembly (1x) – Assemblyed in the Chapter 21
โฌข M3 Hexagon Nut (2x)
โฌข M3x6 Screw (4x)
โฌข M3x20 Screw (2x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Put two M3 Hexagon nut in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข)
โฌข Insert the Motor assembly in position.
โฌข Tighten the Motor assembly with four M3x6 Screw from down side.
โฌข Tighten the Motor assembly with two M3x20 Screw from up side
Check that the Motor assembly’s (โฌข) bearing is in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT bearing slot. If not, you need more pressing: Check Chapter 21 / Step 3!




Step 7: Lower Control Arm
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM (Left) (1x)
โฌข SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM (Right) (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (2x)
โฌข M3x10 Screw (2x)
โฌข D3x50 mm Shaft (2x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Place the Left SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM into the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) cutout and press the D3x50 mm Shaft (โฌข) thru the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT hole and thru the Left SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM (โฌข), until you can.
โฌข Place the Left SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM into the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) cutout and press the D3x50 mm Shaft (โฌข) thru the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT hole and thru the Left SK_REAR_LOWER_CONTROL_ARM (โฌข), until you can.
โฌข Insert two M3 Square Nut into the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) slots. If the D3x50 mm shaft block the slot, you have to press the shaft more forward!
โฌข Tighten with two M3x10 Screw the lower control arms shaft
Press the D3x50 mm shaft until you can within reasonable limits. From down side you can see in a small cutout that the shaft is in the final position, or not.



Step 8: Rear bumper assembly
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (4x)
โฌข M3x10 Screw (2x)
โฌข Rear bumper assembly (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert four M3 Square Nuts in the “SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT”(โฌข) slots
โฌข Tighten with two M3x10 Screws the Rear bumper assembly (โฌข) to the “SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT”(โฌข)
Tighten carefully as you might break the printed parts.




Step 9: Insert the gears
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข Differential assembly (1x) – Assemblyed in the Chapter 21
โฌข SK_Gear_2 and SK_Gear_3 assembly (1x) – Assemblyed in the Chapter 21
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Place the SK_Gear_2 and SK_Gear_3 assembly in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข)
โฌข Place the Differential assembly in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข)
Check that all bearings are in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT bearing slots. If not, you need more pressing: See the Chapter 21 for more details.


Step 10: Rear Giga Print Cover
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (1x)
โฌข SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT_COVER (1x)
โฌข M3 Hexagon Nut (6x)
โฌข M3x30 Screw (6x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert six M3 Hexagon nut in the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT_COVER (โฌข)
Guide the motor, motor fan and LED light cables through the cable management cutout!
Make this step together with the next “Cable management” step!
โฌข Tighten with six M3x30 Screw the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT (โฌข) to the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT_COVER (โฌข)
Tighten carefully as you can deform the SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT_COVER and your motor shaft, which cause to block your complete drivetrain!




Step 11: Cable management
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Motor Fan cable (1x)
โฌข Motor Cables (1x red, 1x black)
โฌข LED Light Cable (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Make sure that the Motor fan cable go trough the Cable management hole
โฌข Make sure that the Motor Cables (1x red, 1x black) go trough the Cable management hole
โฌข With your finger press in the LED cables into the cable guides. Don’t use sharp tools, which can cut the cable outside protection during this process.
โฌข Move the LED cable through the Cable management hole. If it would be too hard, remove the “SK_REAR_GIGA_PRINT_COVER” for that.
โฌข; โฌข; โฌข: Remember which cables connected to the motor, motor fan and for LED. Mark it with some paper on the cable, or memorize it! You will need this information later on!


Step 12: Upper control arm
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_REAR_UPPER_CONTROL_ARM (2x)
โฌข Ball head (8x)
โฌข SK_ENDSTOPPER (2x)
โฌข D3x22 mm Shaft (2x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (2x)
โฌข M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (2x)
โฌข Thread locker
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Press one-one SK_ENDSTOPPER in the one-one SK_REAR_UPPER_CONTROL_ARM (โฌข), use Vise/Hand Vise
โฌข Press four-four Ball head in the one-one SK_REAR_UPPER_CONTROL_ARM (โฌข), use Vise/Hand Vise
โฌข Position two SK_REAR_UPPER_CONTROL_ARM according the images and press through the D3x22 mm Shaft (โฌข). Check the SK_REAR_UPPER_CONTROL_ARM (โฌข) orientation!
โฌข Place in the M3 Square nuts in the Slots
โฌข Place on the M3x5 Hex socket set screw a small amount of Thread locker
โฌข Tighten the M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point to make sure the D3x22 mm Shaft (โฌข) stay in position.
Tighten carefully as you might break the printed parts.
Don’t forget to use the thread locker on the M3x5 Hex socket set screw






Step 13: Wheel Hub insert
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_Wheel_Hub (1x)
โฌข Diff Drive Cup (1x)
โฌข Tool_3(1x)
โฌข Tool_4 (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Press into the SK_Wheel_Hub the Diff Drive Cup (โฌข). Make sure that the flat surfaces match to each other!
โฌข, โฌข Use Tool_3 (โฌข) and Tool_4 (โฌข) for pressing
Make sure that the flat surfaces match to each other!
Between the Diff Drive Cup (โฌข) and SK_Wheel_Hub (โฌข) you need a
press fit connection. If it is loose, than reprint the SK_Wheel_Hub (โฌข) with higher flow rate on your 3D Printer, or Scale it up with 1%.
2x Repeat this step!




Step 14: Wheel Hub Nuts
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข SK_Wheel_Hub (1x)
โฌข M2 Hexagon Nut (5x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert five M2 Hexagon Nut into the SK_Wheel_Hub (โฌข). Make sure that you press the Nuts in the correct orientation!
Press parts until you can, don’t leave gap between the SK_DIFF_HOUSE_3 and bearing.
2x Repeat this step!


Step 15: Rear Hub Carrier / 1
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Tool_4 (1x)
โฌข SK_Wheel_Hub (1x)
โฌข 61702 (also known as 6702) Ball bearing, d15xD21xb4 mm size (1x)
โฌข SK_Hub_Spacer_2 (1x) – The shorter spacer!
โฌข SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (1x) – Links
โฌข Tool_1 (2x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Press the 61702 Ball Bearing onto the SK_Wheel_Hub (โฌข)
โฌข Press the SK_Hub_Spacer_2 onto the SK_Wheel_Hub (โฌข)
โฌข Press the SK_Wheel_Hub into the SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (โฌข)
โฌข, โฌข Use Tool_4 and Tool_1 for the pressing, like it is shown on the images
Make sure you use the correct spacer and press the parts completely!




Step 16: Rear Hub Carrier / 2
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Tool_4 (1x)
โฌข SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (1x) – Links
โฌข 61702 (also known as 6702) Ball bearing, d15xD21xb4 mm size (1x)
โฌข Tool_2 (1x)
โฌข SK_Hub_Spacer_1 (1x) – The longer spacer!
โฌข Tool_7 (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Press the 61702 Ball Bearing into the SK_Wheel_Hub_Carrier (โฌข)
with Tool_4 (โฌข) and Tool_2 (โฌข)
โฌข Press the SK_Hub_Spacer_1 with Tool_4 (โฌข) and Tool_7 (โฌข)
Make sure you use the correct spacer and press the parts completely!






Step 17: Rear Hub Carrier / 3
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข M3 Square Nut (4x)
โฌข SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (1x)
โฌข M3x8 Screw (4x)
โฌข M3x6 Screw (1x)
โฌข SK_Brake_Disc (1x)
โฌข SK_Brake_Caliper (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Press the M3 Square Nuts (4x) into the SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (โฌข)
โฌข Fix the left SK_Brake_Disc (Marked with “L”) to the SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (โฌข) with four M3x8 Screws (โฌข)
โฌข Fix the SK_Brake_Caliper to the SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (โฌข) with M3x6 Screw (โฌข)
The M3x6 screw is go in printed plastic, so donโt use excessive strength during tightening, or the thread in the printed part will damage




Step 18: Rear Hub Carrier / 4
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Driveshaft Dogbone
โฌข SK_Rear_Hub_Carrier (1x) – Left
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert the Driveshaft Dogbone into the two Diff Drive Cup
You will fix the Rear Hub Carrier in the next steps!



Step 19: Rear Hub Carrier / 5
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข D3 x 22 mm Rod (1x)
โฌข M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert the D3 x 22 mm Rod
โฌข Lock the D3 x 22 mm Rod against movement with M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (1x), but:
Stop the tightening at the smallest resistance increase or the Rear Hub carrier part will brake and you need to disassemble and reprint it! We are series, this step is critical.
If the Rod pressing was tight, you can also skip the Hex socket set screw!
Be extra careful during the M3x5 Hex socket set screw tightening!



Step 20: Rear Hub Carrier / 6
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข D3 x 22 mm Rod (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (4x)
โฌข M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (1x)
โฌข D3 x 22 mm Rod (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (4x)
โฌข M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (1x)
โฌข Thread locker
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Insert the D3 x 22 mm Rod in the Rear Hub Carrier
โฌข Insert M3 Square Nut in the Rear Hub Carrier
โฌข Place on the M3x5 Hex socket set screw a small amount of Thread locker
โฌข Lock the D3 x 22 mm Rod against movement with M3x5 Hex socket set screw with cup point (1x), but:
Stop the tightening at the smallest resistance increase or the Rear Hub carrier part will brake and you need to disassemble and reprint it! We are series, this step is critical.
If the D3 x 22 Rod pressing was tight fit, you can also skip the Hex socket set screw and the Square nut!
Be extra careful during the M3x5 Hex socket set screw tightening and don’t forget to use the Thread locker on the part!




Step 21-A: Shock absorber: Spring replacement
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Shock absorber end piece (1x)
โฌข Default spring (1x)
โฌข Shock absorber washers (2x)
โฌข Shock absorber pre-load adjustment (1x)
โฌข New, stronger spring (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Rotate the shock absorber end piece to make possible to remove the two old springs (โฌข) and the washers (โฌข)
โฌข Place a new, stronger spring on the Shock absorber
โฌข Rotate back the shock absorber end piece
โฌข Give extra pre-load with turning the Absorber end piece.
Repeat these steps 2x for the Rear Shock absorber and 2x for the Front Shock absorber!
You should choose between/combine Step 21-A (install new spring) and Step 21-B (install extra plastic part to give an extra pre-load) to the shock absorber. These steps make possible to set your suspension characteristic like you want!






Step 21-B: Shock absorber: Set extra pre-load
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Shock absorber end piece (1x)
โฌข Default spring (1x)
โฌข Shock absorber washers (2x)
โฌข Shock absorber pre-load adjustment (1x)
โฌข SK_Spring_Preload (1x) – Printed in Chapter 10 / Step 15
Repeat these steps 2x for the Rear Shock absorber and 2x for the Front Shock absorber!
Sub-Steps:
โฌข Rotate the shock absorber end piece to make possible to remove the two springs (โฌข) and the washers (โฌข)
โฌข Place a new, plastic 3D printed washers on the Shock absorber
โฌข Place back the original springs and rotate back the shock absorber end piece (โฌข)
โฌข Give extra pre-load with turning the Absorber end piece, if more preload need.
You should choose between/combine Step 21-A (install new spring) and Step 21-B (install extra plastic part to give an extra pre-load) to the shock absorber. These steps make possible to set your suspension characteristic like you want!








Step 22: Shock absorber assembly
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข M3 Hexagon Nut (1x)
โฌข M3 Square Nut (1x)
โฌข M3x14 Cylinder Head Screw (1x)
โฌข M3x25 Cylinder Head Screw (1x)
โฌข Shock absorber (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข, โฌข: Fix the bottom of the Shock absorber (โฌข) with the M3 Hexagon nut (โฌข) and with the M3x25 Cylinder Head screw (โฌข)
โฌข, โฌข: Fix the top of the Shock absorber (โฌข) with the M3 Square nut (โฌข) and with the M3x14 Cylinder Head screw (โฌข)
Make sure that you don’t tight too match the screws, specially the top one, or the plastic part could brake!




Step 23: Right Rear Suspension
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Right Suspension (1x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข: Repeat the steps from Step 13 to Step 22, just for the Right Suspension!
Check the “R” Markings on the plastic parts!
Go back to the Step 13 and repeat the steps for the right rear suspension!

Step 24: Wheel Installation
For the following step, please prepare:
โฌข Wheel with Screws and Washers from Chapter 20. (2x)
Sub-Steps:
โฌข: Press the Wheels on the hub and fix it with Wheel Screws/ washers.
Make sure that you tight the five Screw equally! Rotate the wheels with your hand 1-2 turn, and check the wheels for Circular runout.
Tight / loose the screws until the Circular runout is very minor/not existing.
If you skip this step, your wheel will woobling. The suspension will have extra load and your suspension could break and the RC car control will be very difficult!
Tight the Wheel Screws equally!


12 responses to “22. Build the Skateboard: Rear”
Hello. I’m building this car as a present for my nephew and I thought it would be very neat if I could print the skateboard cover parts in a transparent resin so he could see the gears and RC components (when the exoskeleton is off, at least). But I can’t print anything in transparent filament/resin very well so I was going to have PCBWay do the print. They allow for an “assembly test” for dimensional verification of the part. If this is not provided then they “do not bear any assembly risk if you choose No assembly requirement”
With that being said, do you have technical drawings of the skateboard cover parts: sk_rear_giga_print_cover_v1.stl, sk_front_giga_print_cover_v1.stl, sk_middle_cover_awd_v1.stl and sk_middle_cover_rwd_v1.stl? And would you be willing to share?
The type of detail they’re looking for is illustrated in their example: https://www.pcbway.com/img/cnc/images/parts-assembly.png
You can ignore the above comment if you want, since I actually ended up using your Contact form instead. Sorry for the spam ๐
Hello,
No problem and your idea is definitely sound interesting! Are you sure that PCBWay can make a proper glass-transparent print? Because it is pretty hard to achieve.
Currently we don’t have such a drawings, because for the 3D printing typical no need drawings.
If they would print in a same printing orientation, like you can see the files in the Prusa Slicer, than the prints should work.
I think we can prepare such a simple drawing for you, I think it can made within a few days.
But to make sure I understand correctly:
– They would need some part drawings from the cover files to check the dimensions after the manufacturing?
– make sure to not print sk_middle_cover_awd_v1.stl and sk_middle_cover_rwd_v1.stl, you only need one of them! If you build AWD, than the AWD, if you build RWD, than RWD. I guess the service is not so cheap, so I want to give a warning. Which version will you build?
Im trying to get him into science/engineering/tech, so hopefully hell be interested enough to take this apart and learn from it. I think having the internals be visible might make it more appealing. I’ll certainly share the results of the PCBway prints. I’m fairly sure they can make it transparent, they have “translucent” and “transparent”, and the little example they show for transparent looks pretty good.
Im definitely doing the AWD version. Not sure why I included the RWD STL, my apologies.
And yes, that’s exactly what they want the drawings for. Basically they don’t want to print it and charge me for it just to find out its like 3mm too large or something like that.
I feel like I should be able to use the ruler in PrusaSlicer and get the dimensions, but I am pretty terrible when it comes to graphics and wasn’t even sure how to get a usable graphic from the STL files aside from screenshots of PrusaSlicer, lol.
And I agree their service isn’t too cheap, so I was going to just do one of them first and if I like the results, I would do the other two. So with that in mind, maybe don’t put all your time into the drawings for all three, lets just pick one part.
I’m not sure which would look best (front, center or rear). I’ll let you pick ๐ Whichever you think will be less work for you, or whichever you think would look the best.
Clear!
Than I will start with the rear cover I think! In the middle section only hell lot of cables and electrical components are
After if you say the product is transparent enough than I would do the other two.
We just sent the drawing on your email address!
P.S. I’m going to have them do the resin print, not an FDM print. The resin prints tend to be much easier to get transparent (from what I understand, at least)
P.P.S. (again, very sorry for the spam… lol) Because I know my nephew, and that his toys rarely last his destructive habits (which I can hardly blame him for), instead of printing this out of PLA, Its a mixture of Nylon (gears), PETG-CF (skateboard chassis) and PETG-GF for the wheels. The exoskeleton was initially printed in silver PLA (Amolen brand) which looks absolutely perfect, but the fact that I kept breaking parts just by mild usage during test fittings I decided I would experiment with using ASA. I couldn’t find any ASA or ABS with the right brushed stainless steel look, so I’ll have to paint the parts. I may try acetone smoothing it as well.
In any case, this thing should be damn near indestructible when I’m done, haha. The only downside of not using PLA was that most of the other filaments tend to shrink when they cool. I had to scale everything up by between 0.3mm to even 1mm depending on the filament (which I’ve gone through a lot of in tests/calibrations). But it’s worked out well thus far.
Woow, I would like zoo see photos about the results definitely!
We also had to replece lot of times a front bumper and front suspension parts.
It is heavy and If it is hit some noz movable rock than something has to break! After lot if try we seach a big enough fields, where there are no objects to hit ๐
Well I’ll definitely give you some pictures when its done ๐
One thing I didn’t anticipate was just how many prints/test prints/reprints I would have to do for some parts because of just how much a fraction of a mm would matter. A good example is the wheel hubs and drive train. Printing those on Overture Easy Nylon made them just small enough that there was some backlash in the gears and the wheel hubs wouldn’t sit in the bearings very well. So I took the difference in the diameter of the parts and enlarged the model in the X/Y by that much and that would sometimes then make the parts too large.
I would then just print out like 3 or 4 test prints with 0.1mm difference in each so I could test them, but I would lower the infill and walls because I was trying to conserve filament. But that impacted how much it shrank, so the test prints with less infill would shrink differently too. So then the test prints would be printed at the same values. lol. And obviously the shrinkage isn’t the same for every type of filament either.
But this is why I was asking for the drawings. Having something like this happen on a $40 printed part from PCBWay would be pretty bad. So being able to give them the exact dimensions would remediate that. Though, I feel like they should be able to just use the stl file and a measurement tool in whatever slicer they use to do those measurements. But oh well.
Btw, thanks for making this RC Cybertruck. If I like the result enough, I may make one for myself or just wait til one of your other TeslaRCS cars are done and make that. These are a lot of fun to build.
Oh, I’m glad you mentioned that you had to replace the front suspension parts. That was actually something I was worried about, and I was trying to find an excuse to use some Kevlar impregnated Nylon filament I got a while ago (as well as kevlar/ABS) that’s insanely strong. If I run into issues in testing I may go back to using that for any parts that do end up breaking.
๐
We tried to keep the costs low, therefore it was optimized to PLA, but if you have stronger materials, than the
– Front lower control arm
– STEERING_RACK & STEERING_PINION parts,
– Rear lower control arms
worth to print from Nylon.
They are close to the ground and therefore more risk that they will get some hit from the ground / obstacles